La Primer Granja de WWOOF

As you have probably guessed, I am officially living on a farm in Chile. First, however, I have to begin where I left off...

My last evening in Pichilemu, I surfed with the owner of the Hostal Atlantis. After 6, when the resident hija had eaten and was being looked after by Viviana (the other owner), Carlos and I ran (literally, like ants) to the surf shop to rent me a bigger board. Of course I rented one too big, because I always pick the wrong size when forced to rent. Anyhow, we paddled out at La Puntilla which is walking distance from the town center. We had to paddle out between rocks on the beach again, but this time the current lovingly carried us out halfway to the peak. All was tranquilo for about 10 minutes, and then the sets came. They were about 6-7 feet and kicked me and my huge board's asses. I could duck dive, but not very well, and half the time the power of the wave ripped the board out of my hands. At one point I almost hit a guy with my board and decided that maybe I wasn't endangering myself, but I was endangering others. Still I was out of my league. I let the current carry me in a ways, in the hopes of catching a wave or 2 on the inside, but they were all crap. Boo. I want to return at some point to Pichilemu, because apparently March is the "best" i.e. biggest time of year to go. I thought about going this week but the report said 11-15 feet! No, thank you.

That wednesday night I got to chill with Carlos and his friend Raul at the hostel, after treating myself to a delicious and obscenely large fish dinner. The 3 of us talked shit, played cards, and drank some beer and wine. ¡Buena onda! The next morning I said goodbye to my european friends and took my leave by bus. I slept the entire way, que rico. When I arrived to Santiago, I was beyond parched and starving. The tap water was not safe to drink in Pichilemu, so I had to buy it and therefore didn't drink enough... well, for me.

So I haven't talked a whole lot about food in Chile, because I haven't been super impressed. However, there are some things that are made with excellence here. For example, choripan: a spicy, short, fat sausage which is cooked on the barbeque and served in fresh bread with pebre- a type of pico de gallo. Excelente! Also, the chileans make delicious empanadas, my favorite of which is de pino- with steak, onions, spices, half a boiled egg, and one black olive (with the pit, mind your teeth!) On top of all that are the completos. Completos are a big part of food culture here. In Santiago on the side of the main Plaza de Armas, is an entire row of food stands and restaurants that all, apparently, specialize in completos. They are a hot dog with saurkraut, tomatoes, and a shitload of mayonnaise. I like them, with menos mayonesa, por fa'. So when I returned to Santiago after Pichilemu, I went to a popular restaraunt a half block away from the apartment, called Fuente Suiza. They specialize in fried empanadas and also make good quality completos. One of each of those with a cold Coke...mmmmmmmm.

And as soon as I returned from one trip, it was time to pack for another. Marie and Francisco invited me to join them at Francisco's father's house in Marìa Pinto- a small town which consists of a few farms, a large golf course, and several vacation homes. We stayed in Francisco Senior's 6 bedroom house next to the golf course. Wow! ¡Que lujo (luxury)! There was a gigantic lawn in the back yard, with a barbeque area, a lounge area, and a pool. That, coupled with a maid and a group of excellent (male) cooks in the family= very luxurious weekend. We basically ate, rode bikes, and played frisbee and bocce ball all weekend. And did cartwheels. It was actually rather overwhelming. Thursday night, Francisco's brother Juan Pablo, or Brrro, made the best steak I've ever had in my life. He cooked it on the grill and we simply cut slices off to eat. Incredible. Friday it rained all day, but we ate a scrumptious caldo congrio- soup made of vegetables, potatoes, and sea snake. On Saturday a few more friends of the family came over and made a huuuge pot of paella, on the barbeque even. ¡Que rico! That night we got good and drunk (curado) with some other friends from Santiago, then took a wild ride on the golf cart. Sweet. Sunday was relatively mellow, we woke up late and went for a bike ride then had lunch and returned to Santiago.

Sunday evening I went to a cool, bohemian bar in Santiago, The Clinic, named after a popular publication that pokes fun at politics and such. Kind of like The Onion, but based on real events. Anyhoo, I knew I was about to leave town so I wanted to say goodbye to my Santiago homiez. On Monday I woke up knowing that it was time to leave so I did some last minute laundry and lunched with Anja and Darren. Monday night I said goodbye to my Santiagan family over dinner of Croatian meatballs (thank you, Maja, for my favorite recipe). I think Marie and Francisco were relieved to finally have the house to themselves again ;)

The ride south to Puerto Montt was 12 hours, so of course I chose coche cama seating, and slept pretty well. Once in Puerto Montt I took a local bus to the town of Metri, less then an hour southeast. Matias, the owner of the farm, gave me decent directions (not too good, he says, to weed out the dumb ones) so I made it all the way to the wwoof sign before calling him. Walking up the hill to the farm, I felt such an elated sense of freedom, it was incredible. Here I was, in the middle of nowhere ("en la mitad de nada"), carrying my life on my back, walking through the mud and rocks, listening to the sound of exotic new birds, and loving it!

Matias came down from his house to welcome me to the farm, and I immediately knew he was good people ("buena gente"). He is extremely laid back, with a slightly unkempt beard, and the air of somebody who has all the time in the world. His house sits on the crest of the hill, overlooking the forested terrain and the Pacific Ocean. Off in the distance, although you can't see it from here, is the island of Chiloè.

Priscilla is the only other person wwooofing here, and she is badass! Originally from Zimbabwe, she moved to New York at 12 and is now studying at Scripps College near L.A. Incredibly intelligent and mature, she is easy to laugh and is inspiring me in innumerable ways. We have been working together at planting ajo (sort of a giant garlic, or a cross between garlic and onion), as well as refining batches of honey, and... cooking! Since I have been here we have made apple pie (both our first) with fresh, local, and organic raisins, apples, honey and cinnamon. She also taught me how to make bread, and yesterday we made a sauce out of chard (acelga) from the farm, merquèn (a chilean spice like a spicy paprika), and milk, to put on potatoes and pasta. Por suerte she loves to eat as much as I do! Tomorrow we are heading to Chiloè to check out the artesanìas (handmade crafts) there, as well as some of the surrounding islands.

I am planning to come back here after Chiloè, and maybe spend another week or so before heading off to a new farm. I have been keeping my phone charged so if anyne wants to call, feel free! The number is 56 (country code) 9-590-4902. I miss everyone so much, and am really looking forward to my homecoming reunion! I love you, mi gente!