Home Stretch

Again, I have some catching up to do! Hmmm... where did we leave off? Valdivia, no? Well, Priscilla and I stayed only one week with Daniel from Ohio, occupying ourselves with making apple sauce and apple pies to freeze and save for the students that visit the farm during the summer. I took many photos of the area with Priscilla's camera, I'm sure at some point we will all see them! After leaving Daniel's farm we stayed one more night in Valdivia, to experience the night life on Calle Esmeralda one last time, and to eat at La Ultima Frontera (The Final Border/Crossing)- a very bohemian place displaying local art, and with a great menú del día. That day we were also having a hard time deciding what to do. I considered returning to Chiloé to work on a farm that had finally answered my email... but then Priscilla found out about a surf competition in Pichilemu! Within 20 minutes we had both changed our plans completely and decided that we had to go see the event. That evening, off we went! It was a long bus ride and thankfully we both slept a little.

We arrived in Pichilemu around 10am and of course the town was still asleep. We wandered around until we found a sweet little campsite called Pequeño Bosque (Little Forest). The owners were incredibly nice, and although it was expensive for camping, we were actully able to wash our clothes in their washing machine and they had a gas stove for us to use as well as a fully stocked kitchen. In other words, not really camping at all, except we slept in a tent... with a cush mattress that they also let us borrow. Lucy and Felipe are a bohemian couple that built their own house and established the "campsite" below it. Their house appears similar to a loft above a carport, and the warm-colored wood decor inside reminded me of Aunt Shirley's dome.

Immediately after settling in, Priscilla and I decided to go for a run, as we had been eating way too many sweets and not exercising in the least. It was a beautiful day- the first time we had seen the sun in ages! That evening we made a delicious, healthy dinner consisting of a giant salad with hard boiled eggs. We also attempted to go out that evening but the one discoteque in town was empty, so we stood out front and enjoyed the music without having to pay the entrance fee.

The following day, Saturday, was the day of the finals in the Quicksilver Ceremonial, Punta de Lobos competition. We ate breakfast and carried out our favorited empanadas baked in clay ovens. Hitchhiking to Punta de Lobos where the comp. was at was quick and easy, with a laidback Pichilemu local taking us all the way to the point. There were hundreds of people there, and the waves were up to 25 feet! Incredible is all I can say! I have never seen waves that big in real life, let alone with human beings bold enough to drop in! The atmosphere was exciting to say the least, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Priscilla had never even seen anyone surf before! (Besides on TV, of course.) Nor did she know that her neighboring country, South Africa, hosts another world class wave at Jeffrey's Bay.

At the comp I ran into a friend I had met the last time in Pichi, Raul. He invited us to a get together at his house later that night, whoo hoo! After dinner we were picked up by Antonio, Paula, and Carlos (owner of Hostal Atlantis, where I stayed last time). VIP! They took us to Raul's, which was very close, and we hung out there for a couple hours before heading to the same discoteque that we had observed the night before. Only this time, the place was packed! For once the DJ's weren't playing reggaeton, thank heavens, because that seems to be the only music in the clubs here. And for the first time we were in a club that was actually full! Good times! I also attempted to talk to Grant Washburn (although I confused his name with another big wave surfer, Greg Long) because I knew his face from the movie Riding Giants, but I was slightly intoxicated and, honestly, could not speak english! Everytime I opened my mouth to ask a question, out came more spanish, and he had no idea what I was saying. Luckily I did manage to ask the question that was bugging me- what's the name of the guy who surfed Mavericks for 15 years by himself? (Jeff Clark) I have to say that was embarassing. We danced until about 5am and then of course slept until 12 or 1 the next day. That dide not stop me from surfing (or attempting to, again), or Priscilla from going for a run. Another beautiful day in Pichilemu!

That evening we were invited to another small get together near Punta de Lobos, where there ended up being 3 or 4 guys that had surfed in the event, including Ramon Navarro, a local who took 2nd place. It was a fun, chill party, and Priscilla managed to get involved in a heated debate with a South African about politics in Southern Africa.

The following day it was time to make decisions. Priscilla needed to go to Santiago to visit friends before leaving, but I wasn't quite ready to leave Pichilemu yet. I bid her adeu around 6pm then had a quiet evening to myself. The following day I packed up and then went for a surf with Carlos. And finally!!! I actually caught some waves! They were small, but I had a board around 7ft in size and so it was much easier to get into the powerful but mushy waves. I was so happy I actually felt like a surfer again! And the last wave was a party wave shared with Carlos- I was elated to leave on a good note. That night I left for Santiago happily with arms like jelly.

I arrived in the 'hood of Las Condes, Santiago (very yuppie) around 9:30pm and headed to the apartment of my friends Rob (from San Diego), and Pablo, a Chileno. We had a pleasant, mellow evening punctuated by a visit to the local movie theater to see Hangover 2. The movie was ridiculous of course, but what struck me was the establishment. Called Parque Arauco, for the neighboring park, this mall contains Hoyts Premium theater, where there is a gourmet restaurant in which to wait and eat, but which also brings you your meal into the theater. Each lavish seat is made of leather and has an attached pull out little table to eat at. Wine, beer, and spirits are also offered. ¡Muy lujoso!

The next day, Friday, I slept in late and laid around the house while Pablo was at work and Rob studied. Rob has been in Santiago about a year and is close to finishing his Master's in Economics at an institute in Santiago, through a program offered at Georgetown University in the states. He is incredibly smart, and I have never seen anyone study like he does. For the 3 days that I was there, he only left his room to eat, or go to the store to get food. Literally. I wanted to drag him outside to go to the park, but he refused. "Have to study, have to study" were about the only things out of his mouth. Here's to you, Rob, for working hard for the rest of us on vacation!

Friday night was Francisco's (of Francisco and Marie) show at Bar Clandestino. The band, Mr. Toé y Los Sicarios del Ritmo, are a mix of cumbia and hip-hop- very danceable and very fun! After the show, the DJ played more fun music, so we (Margaret, Pablo, and I) danced until about 5am (the norm in Chile, obviously).

Saturday brought a late wake-up, again, and a quick stint in the park nearby, Parque Arauco. That evening we went to a costume party in an event hall reserved for 3 people with birthdays that weekend. I want as Janis Joplin because all I had were hippie clothes, although I lacked her glasses so I really just looked the same as I always do- like a dirty backpacker! Again, we danced until very late, and accordingly I slept in very late the next day. The rest of the Sunday afternoon was spent packing and prparing for my departure to Linares, a city 4 hours to th south by bus, for my next WWOOF adventure.

And so, here I am in Linares, with not much to do because it is pouring rain. The "farm" is actually an ecological park in a residential neighborhood of the city. The owners, Jorge and Paula, have a 3 year old daughter, Gaby, who enjoys eating manjar (a caramel-like spread for toast) by the spoonful, and stuffing herself in my sleeping bag when I am already in it. Jorge is very passionate about his park and is continually working on projects to improve it. He is very meticulous and organized, and harvests red worms (originally from California) for their humus, as well as fruit trees and vegetables in a permaculture style. He also has a couple meditation spaces, although I haven't been able to use them because of the rain. Therefore I am doing a lot of reading in both spanish and english, and hoping to learn more about permaculture.

Next week I am heading to another ranch near Curicó where there is apparently ample livestock (including horses- yay!) and a bona fide farm. I am excited to see the place, and hoping it won´t be too cold and rainy because I will have to sleep outside in my tent...maybe...maybe they´ll let me sleep on the floor inside the house instead. More to come...

I am definitely ready to come home, I am aching for warm weather and familiar faces- as soon as I purchase my ticket home I will give you all the dates!!!