San Pedro de Atacama- the Burning Man of Chile?

To pick up where I left off, I think I was still up to my elbows in animal shit the last time we talked. That pretty much carried on for the entire 2 weeks that I stayed Nonna Rosa, the goat factory. It was a wonderful experience. Karla, Efren, Ari and I became a close-knit family, sharing a house, meals, life stories, and above all a love for honey. It is really hard to explain how special it was to share our lives for those brief two weeks. The interesting thing about it is that we all needed each other in one way or another. We took care of each other in a way that indicated it was obvious that fate had thrown us together at this exact moment in our lives. Karla and I have since had numerous conversations marvelling at the karma involved in our experience at Nonna Rosa. Finally, it's difficult to define how I was affected, let alone describe what took place between us and within us all. I would actually like to make a movie about it... more on that later...

It was a also a manner of fate how Karla and I managed to decide to go to San Pedro de Atacama together. I had planned to go since I arrived at the cabrerìa, but Karla had been undecided, mostly because of the cost. However, a parisian couple that had worked at Nonna Rosa earlier with Karla, came by to say hello and buy some cheese. Lo and behold, they had 2 tickets to Calama, an hour from San Pedro de Atacama, that they didn't need. So we got cheap(er) tickets to the north... which meant that I had to say goodbye! My last few days were incredible. Saturday we had another party with goat stew and Karla and I finally got to meet Ari's son that we heard so much about, and there was a much larger turnout than the previous week. We also had karaoke which is always super fun, although I didn't sing because I wasn't drunk. That being said, I went to bed "early" at 2am because I was planning to herd goats with Juanito, the goat master, and it was very restful sleep at that- I had no problem waking up at 8am.

Sunday morning was beautiful and serene, and I couldn't imagine anything better than going to pasture (pastorear) with the goats and the cactus. Basically we just walked around about a 2 square mile space of low trees, prickly bushes, and cactus, and I even had a moment to myself to do some meditating and reflecting in the sun. Absolutely magical. When I returned it was lunch and then back to watering the orchard with urine... yeah, seriously.

Monday afternoon after lunch I headed to Valparaìso as the tickets were from there. It was about an hour train ride which I spent shooting the shit with a Chilean Señora that loves to travel like I do. I spent the afternoon wandering around the city and eating lunch in a large market. The hostel I stayed in is owned by a friend of Aldo's, and his daughter Juliana gave me quick tour of the adorable neighborhood in Cerro Concepción. Very cute, but also very expensive- about $16 for a set lunch, which is ridiculous even for Chile. So that is why I went to eat in the market, although it was about 20 minutes away, walking. I got home after dark and sat and watched the port for awhile drinking wine. Later Karla (who had arrived after closing the store at Nonna Rosa) and I went to eat with a friend of Ari's, Jose Manuel. Because it was a holiday (feriado) there was only one place open, and they only served one dish: chorrillanas, which is a pile of french fries with chorizo, steak, and onions on top... actually very delicious!

The next morning we were off to Calama! It was about a 24 hour bus ride, which wasn't too bad because I was able to sleep pretty well. The arrival in Calama, however, was quite an adventure. First of all, it was bitterly cold, and when we got off the bus we were informed that the bus terminal was closed due to a miner's demonstration/strike, so we weren't quite sure how we would get to San Pedro. Somehow a Columbian evangelist christian latched himself onto us, as well as an African American man that spoke no spanish and had traveled overland from New Mexico in an attempt to get to Brazil to see his daughter who is studying there. We walked, we discussed, we asked around, and didn't accomplish much. I helped the American guy get a hostel and eventually we managed to get the Columbian off our tail (although he was very kind and jovial). As we wandered in the direction of the main highway to leave town towards San Pedro (which everyone told us was closed and we had NO chance of leaving), an official looking pickup truck pulled over to ask if we needed a ride. The 2 gentleman informed us that there should be no problem getting to SP and they would happily take us to the edge of town to hitchike. When we landed, we saw that we were in the middle of nowhere- desert landscape flanked by snowy capped mountains. Within 15 minutes we had a ride to SP with a kind young man and his father heading out to visit family. They even fed us Coke and cookies!

Upon arrival to San Pedro we were instantly in love. The town is full of adobe buildings and dirt roads- and not much else. We found a great campsite that is affordable and fully stocked with Wi-Fi, a kitchen, and a communal area with a fireplace. Thank the lord, too, because it is suuuuuuppppeeerrrr cold here at night! About 6 below 0 at night (celsius)- ack! Last night was our first night, and although we had some thick ground covering that the owner lent us, I had trouble sleeping for the first hour due to the cold. Tonight I am going to prepare a watera (hot water bottle) because I think it's the only way I will survive. By contrast, during the day it is bright and sunny and in the sun one can even wear a t-shirt! I thoroughly enjoyed my tea in the sun this morning.

And now my toes are starting to feel the cold in this internet cafe, so I am going to head "home" to finish my emailing on my ipod (unfortunately I can't update my blog with the ipod). Today is the 30th of June which means I have only 12 days left before heading home! Ayyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So amped!